My Wave: a Surfer Tale Lrg edition

Throughout the past five decades, surfers have been falsely given a bad reputation that stems mainly from fictional movies. They are portrayed as lazy, weed smoking, hippy, free-loaders with no ambition in life other than surfing. That is not reality. Books with a surfing theme all have one thing in common; they are documents about courage, pushing the limits, near death experiences, overcoming all obstacles, friendship and love. What outsiders do not realize is surfers have a unique and spiritual connection with the Earth and Mother Nature. Once it?s in the blood, it grabs hold of the soul and never let?s go of it. It changes a person, and in most cases, in a positive fashion. Before Steven K Craig was an author, a world famous artist, a champion Jet Ski racer or known for being a co-creator of the iconic metal band Slayer, he was a Surfer, and it was his love for surfing that paved the way for his future. Steven dreamed of surfing years before he held a surfboard in his hands. At a very young age, the ocean reached in and took hold of his soul. He became the stereotypical Southern California surfer before it was stereotypical. To him, it wasn't a lifestyle; it was a magical way of life. His story is a testament to why people should live life with passion, to its fullest and never give up on dreams. Only once in every generation, a surfer who is at the right place at the right time gets to experience what is referred to as ?Big Wednesday. It?s the day they hope for and dream about. This is the day a surfer?s physical and mental abilities are put to the test and pushed beyond the limits. On that day, death is close at hand, and for those that emerge victorious, they go on to conquer the world. There is no more fear, only living for each and every moment afterwards. You do not need to be a surfer to enjoy this magical story. A marvelous tale for the young people of today about how a boy that was different didn?t follow trends or succumb to peer pressure conquered the world. People from all walks of life can learn what it is to truly be alive from the tale of a Surfer, even if they never grab a board and get in the water to take on the brutal monsters of the ocean, which only a true surfer has the courage to call ?My Wave?.